YAY!!!!!

The surf is back!!!

The forecast said that it would be 3ft this evening... but it turned out to be way more than that and it was SUPER AWESOME. The parking lot at 1431 was almost full when I got there just before 8:30PM, which is an excellent sign.

Got a lot of time on the green... and I was holding my own out there... so many super awesome rides that I really can't keep track anymore... by 9:45PM, there were only two others that I could see, and they caught a closeout in and were gone. I refused to leave without catching that one last excellent ride (this rarely ever works out, usually because by the time I'm thinking about going in, the surf is either super crappy, or I'm really, really, really tired... or super pressed for time... but I still insist)... it was 10PM and quite dark by the time I caught this SUPER AWESOME left, that brought me all the way from the outside to knee-deep water right in front of Long Beach Lodge... and the whole ride "in the pocket," whatever that means... so, the new thing from this evening's session is "best exit ever"...

I walked towards my sandals by 1431, and this other dude was walking towards his flip flops which were right next to mine... "I thought I was the last one out," he said... well... pretty close... after 5 days of flat surf, I was not about to leave until I absolutely couldn't see anymore... and neither was he. Apparently, he had been so stoked to get out that he left his keys to his Vespa in the ignition. It was, of course, still there when we got to the parking lot... and not just because it was almost hidden next to the Aerostar, but because Tofino is super awesome.