The surf was so super awesome today that the phrase super awesome has lost all meaning.
And what's more... I was doing really well. I caught two head high waves today and rode them all the way to the end... they were probably the biggest waves I've caught and ridden comfortably. And then later, on another wave, I actually (seriously, no kidding) made turns up and down the face of the wave, as oppose to ride straight down the line.
Seriously. No kidding. Probably my best session ever. I also caught a wave really close to someone who was paddling out, whereas before I probably would have not caught it, being not sufficiently confident that I had full control of where I was going so that I could be sure to not hit the dude.
By the end of the session, I was so tired I couldn't even throw myself in front of the white water to get back to the beach.
Seriously. No kidding.
SU-PER--AWE-SOME.
Seriously. No kidding.
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