The surf has been really bad for the last few days... it's so small that it isn't really there at all. ULTE1 told me this morning that today is even smaller than yesterday. I went to Cox Bay at 8:30PM. I wasn't planning on surfing, but I had spent all day doing B&B stuff at home that I wanted to be outside... even if it is cold and grey. Besides which, I had to go to Cox at some point to close the washrooms for 10PM... so I brought my camera with the gigantic zoom lens out to maybe walk around and take some pictures. When I got near the beach, I saw a perfect peeling right... and then seconds later, I realised it was a perfect peeling right in knee deep water.
There were very few people out... but I saw one guy catch a 5 second ride. Remembering the photos I saw today of a friend and his buddies trying to surf these weird little wind choppy things on some lake in Ontario, I decided that if there were 5 second rides to be had out there, I was going for it... if not for myself, then for those poor surf stoked people in Ontario!
By the time I got to the beach, everyone was leaving... including the guy who rented the 11' NSP from Long Beach Surf Shop. By the time I got into the water (9:05PM), I was the only one in the water. It was super flat and the light was super flat. I saw almost nothing at all coming in... but I paddled for the first tiny little wave I thought I saw, and I caught a super long ride on this green that's not even quite knee-high. It was the most amazing little wave ever. I paddled back out... and caught another small but long ride... and then another one... and then another one... I was doing laps in this super small surf... which I had all to myself. It was super awesome. I had Cox Bay all to myself... and I got a WHOLE lot of time on the green. After 15 to 20 minutes of catching one wave after another, it got even flatter... and then it was about time to go... so I got out of the water, locked up the washrooms, and came home.
I thought I would have nothing super awesome to report for a long while... but today was a super awesome day of tiny surf... on a day when I wouldn't have gone out... especially if I was with anyone else. It was madness to try and surf something this small... but madness has its rewards. SU-PER AWE-SOME.
And when I got home, I realized that it was my next door neighbour who was out with the rental 11' NSP... which 1.) proves that those out there weren't tourists who were forced to go out in bad surf, and 2.) suggests that super long boards are gaining in popularity.
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