Failure to Process

Something happened out there in the surf today that I cannot quite comprehend.

I know it happened... but I can't put it together.

Here's what I know... I caught this wave... and I was on the green and I was going right... except at some point, I realize that it's not a right anymore... it was closing out... so then the next thing I know... I'm going left! And I kept going left for a while.

So... what I suspect happened is that at some point while I was riding that wave... I made a u-turn and went the other way.

But how is this possible?

I remember being super impressed when I saw someone else do this. In fact, I remember telling the story about this dude doing exactly that to a friend, who was also duly impressed.

Today though, I seem to have done just that. Woh.

If only that was the end of the story.

You see, as I was going left (and this is still that same aforementioned wave)... there was a dude coming right, because it was breaking right behind him... and it was breaking left behind me. He was going right, I was going left... and the wave was closing out. Was this the appropriate time to panic? Or to think "holy shit, what am I going to do?!?!?!!"? It might have been... but instead, we both stayed on the wave... until we got really close... and I went down and he went up, and no one even raised an eyebrow... we both paddled back out... and continued as if that sort of thing happens all the time.

Of course, it probably does. Just not for me, thus far.

The stickers, I am happy to report, are on the board. The large sticker on the nose has been waxed (and is only as visible as the Gordon & Smith logo under the wax).... but the small sticker on the tail has no wax on it... and it looks like that is the exactly place where it should be. I will take a picture tomorrow... today, I was too surf stoked to take a picture before I went out, and it was too dark by the time I came back in.

I do not know what is going on anymore. Something is happening... and I don't