Surf Injury

Cox Bay was nasty yesterday. It looked messy and not very big from shore... but you could see people catching good rides out there. So I went.

I have never been beaten up this badly before... I was getting totally maytagged... came super close to being hit in the head many times, narrowly escaped losing teeth, got whacked by the fin a few times... and sustained a super nasty surf injury. I was tumbled so much and so hard that at one point, I had to actually *swim* up to the surface from however far down I'd been slammed. Once, while under water, my hair somehow got wrapped around the leash which got wrapped around my hair... and when the board shot off away from me, it tore out a chunk of hair. I heard the tearing of each caught hair. I'm pretty sure my scalp was bleeding. I thought that the hair would have disappeared, and I would never know how much hair was ripped out... but as it turns out, there was a chunk of hair that's wrapped around my leash so many times that I couldn't yank it off. It's still there now.

Karen is out this weekend... and she is going to take a picture of the hair. She was a little horrified when she saw it. We surfed long beach tonight... it wasn't the best surf ever... but I caught a few good rides. I am still entirely happy. Early breakfast tomorrow... and I'm slightly wasted right now... signing off,

d.