Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Definitely Not Ping-Pong

I got out without even getting my hair wet today. 4 ft on 10 seconds. Got some fun rides... enjoyed some good company... good conversation... and then Bluepath totally whacked me in the head. This time, it was a sidelong assault... I got hit so hard I couldn't even figure out which side I got hit on. Sam tells me that the wave pretty much broke right on my back as I was going for it. Incidentally, I was also talking with Sam shortly before I chipped my tooth... maybe he is the harbinger of surf injuries? For now... I am insanely paranoid about detached retinas...

ULTE1 insists that my chipped tooth is barely noticeable (which means very little, since one of the first things I noticed about ULTE1 almost three years ago was that he had a chipped tooth-- the same one as mine, incidentally... but much more severe.... apparently from a car accident). He said if I were really worried about it, I could wear a mouth guard... but of course, he said, I would never do that because it would be absolutely ridiculous. Indeed, it would be. Another friend wondered why we don't wear helmets... she says some people do wear helmets at Twin Rivers for the rocks... but not here. We concluded, however, that surfing is what it is, and even with a helmet and a mouth guard, one could still get hit in the face... which means one would have to wear a helmet with a face shield... and then... you might as well surf with hockey gear on. This isn't ping-pong.

In other news, buddy with the skull cap seems to have changed into his hooded winter suit. I thought I heard him yell something at me in the surf, but I turned and looked and saw no skull caps. This dude who looked like him said something to me... but since his hood was attached, I couldn't be sure if it was him. It turns out it was, because I matched the board to the car later on in the parking lot (it's a Trevor, same colour as Trevor I, but a 94). I think I am seriously suffering from visual agnosia... or, more particularly, prosopagnosia... I didn't recognise DCMS when he first turfed the mustache, either. Maybe I should see a neurologist.

New word for the day: unhingèdness-- the quality or state of being unhinged. His unhingèdness is a detriment to his business. Her unhingèdness deters suitors. Too bad, were it not for his unhingèdness, we would be fast friends. &c.

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