Saturday, September 19, 2009

The beginning of the end?!?!?!!!

OH NO! I gave up trying to get outside at Cox Bay yesterday!

It was rainy hard enough to feel like a wintery day. The surf was around 2m high, which is big... but not that big. DCMS checked North, and we decided to surf at Cox. I went out with Bluepath straight into the surf from the access at 1431... and I kept paddling out... and paddling out... and, at first, it didn't seem to be that difficult a paddle... I was having no trouble keeping up with DCMS, which is unusual for me, because usually, when I paddle out with some guy, I'm so many waves behind that I can't even see him... and by the time I get out, it looks like they've been sitting there forever-- this isn't necessarily true, but it feels true. Yesterday, for the most part, he was only about half a wave ahead of me. I kept paddling out... and... eventually, he got a wave or two ahead of me... then I see him take a broken wave right into the beach. I re-evaluate... look around... and find that I've drifted so far down the beach that I am almost at the land of the lefts... nay, that I was at the land of the lefts! I wanted to keep going... because it didn't look impossible... and I didn't want to give up... but as I got even further into the land of the lefts and making no progress to the outside, I got a broken wave in and walked over to DCMS, "what are you doing?" I asked. "Going to get some rides at North." I looked at the surf again... I could stay and keep fighting... but I wanted to get rides... so I went to North.

I gave up. It was the first time I gave up this season. It was the first time I gave up on the Bluepath. I gave up. And it wasn't giving up after I got out... it was giving up before I even got out.

We went to North... I got crappy close out rides.

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