Today was supposedly a day for doing school work... but I was so tired that I ended up dropping one of my courses instead. I could probably get it all done... but I gave it some thought and I just don't feel like stretching that much... and for what... to finish a degree in two years? I've done the must-get-done-as-quickly-as-humanly-possible thing before... and I could probably do it again... but why, if it's going to take out what little joy there is in life to get it done?
Today was the last day for dropping a course for a 100% refund... so I dropped the public sector governance course and kept the microeconomics course. Yay me for recognising that a full time job, a business, and two courses is too much to get done... or at least too much to get done and still surf and live a little.
I wasn't going to go for a surf today though... I was simply too tired. Hiking the wild side on two hours of sleep was ill advised. Actually, doing anything on two hours of sleep is ill advised.
But DCMS called me just before 6 and asked if I wanted to go for a surf... well, I always
want to go for a surf, but I wasn't feeling like I should, being completely exhausted and barely able to move about. He convinced me to go (mainly, I suspect, because he wanted to go for a surf and wanted me to give him a ride... but that's all good, because I need all the push I can get to get out there everyday)... and we went to Cox. We didn't check... Cox was supposed to be good according to the reports and the rumours... so we got suited up and went.
When I saw the surf, I felt that I had made a terrible mistake. It looked exactly like that impossible paddle out on Friday. We were told to go left in the parking lot... so we walked left... and as I was walking, I was thinking that this might be another one of those days when I have to give up on getting out... especially since I was so incredibly tired. DCMS said "I'm going in"... and I replied "I can't see this ending well!"...
I paddled... and paddled... and caught up to DCMS... and paddled... and paddled... and got half a wave ahead of him... and paddled, and paddled... and got a wave or two ahead of him... lost sight of him... kept paddling... and as I paddled, saw ralph catch this perfect ride on his 12' board... encouraged, I kept going.. and going... and soon enough, I was out. It wasn't easy... but it didn't feel impossible, either.
I caught a super fast right-- it was so fast I couldn't do much of anything... just adjusted my stance and shifted enough that I could stay on it and be in the right place on the wave... until it closed out. Then I caught a super fast left-- I was too far forward on the board, so turning was difficult... but I was going so fast that I didn't feel that I could get to the back of the board... I turned up and down the wave impressively many times (impressive to me, anyway)... and then there were two surfers coming up that I wasn't absolutely confident I could get around, so I turned up the wave and pulled off the back, and sat down on my board with what seemed like perfect control... the dude that I could have run over (or maybe got around), said "Nice...." to which I responded with a short "Woohoo" and paddled back out.
There were definitely good rides to be had... and I ended up chatting with someone I know but hadn't seen in a while... he has a very similar looking board... blue, two stringers... but much smaller... I think he said it was a 9'6". While we were chatting, I saw this gigantic wave crashing waaay outside, there were still two waves in between us and it. We paddled out past the two waves, each of which amost crashed right on us... in front of the big crasher, I turned around and held on to my board with a Beowulf grip. I survived the first crasher... and the second... and the third... it was a gigantic clean up set... the biggest I'd seen in recent memory... quite possibly simply the biggest I've ever seen. The fourth and last one got my board and flipped it... the tail hitting me in the chin and slamming my jaw shut. That was the last wave of the clean up set though... and I paddled back out and we confirmed that no one died in that one... contrary to expectations.
My chin wasn't bleeding... but my teeth all felt funny. As it was getting dark, I decided to go in. I caught one in and started walking to the trail. DCMS was already on the beach. He ran into the water to rinse his board off, then caught up to me. Apparently, he didn't get out... paddled hard but drifted down the beach before making it out and gave up... and sat on the beach and watched the sunset instead.... I was a little surprised. He gave up... and I got out. He's far better a surfer than I am... but couldn't make it out and gave up... there's something unbelievable about that. I can't believe that I got out when I didn't think I would... and had a great session despite being exhausted before I even started. I've never been the surfer who had a great session while someone else couldn't make it out and stayed inside or on the beach... I'd always been the one who couldn't make it out... mainly because I've always been the weaker surfer. I still am the weaker surfer in this pair (not that we're a pair)... so this is something entirely new.
Also new is my slightly mis-aligned jaw and aching ear.